I never thought someone else could feed me more than my own mother. ‘I’m full’ becomes a cue for my mother to whip up a roast dinner. Even after indulging in a 10-course tasting menu, my mom insists on making a chip butty for me because I might be a ‘little’ peckish. And the cherry on top – when I’m trying to stick to a diet, she surprises me with pizza and chips! But wait, it’s not so bad; the pizza has vegetables, she says, so I guess I’m all good, right? I thought my mother was alone in this until one Friday lunchtime when a trip to Opheem to try out their Lunch/A la Carte menu (3 courses for £65) with my partner left me needing a helping hand to leave the restaurant; now Aktar Islam has taken over my Mother’s role.

Opheem, a Michelin-Starred Indian fine dining restaurant on Summer Row in Birmingham, is said to be an embodiment of culinary artistry meticulously crafted by the talented chef Aktar Islam. Its approach is refreshingly different as it refuses to cling to the familiar food and culture of yesterday. Instead, Opheem embraces the evolution of Indian cuisine, capturing the essence of India’s diverse culinary heritage.

The experience at Opheem began with an invitation from Empress Ale to sample their beers, so firstly, I have to disclose this was gifted; however, my views are my own.

Upon arriving at the restaurant, we were warmly greeted by the host, who opened the grand stained doors reminiscent of a scene from ‘The Wizard of Oz.’ The lounge was luxurious and sleek throughout, and the service was impressively sharp. Within moments, we were served a sharp, zesty, and gingery palate cleanser, along with mouth-watering snacks such as Linseed Crackers with Mustard and Yoghurt and Mango Tuille with Chutney, Burnt Lettuce and Raw Mango. I paired the snacks up with Empress Ale IPA. We were there to sample the beer, which I felt matched well with many of the dishes. All snacks disappeared within one mouthful, leaving us eagerly anticipating the upcoming culinary journey. After 45 minutes of snacks and drinking beer, we were escorted up to the restaurant for…more snacks.

Opheem’s dining room is a stunning sight with its sleek design and open kitchen layout that allows diners to witness the chefs’ do their thing. Again, service was sharp with drinks orders, and within five minutes, what I thought was our lunch set menu was indeed another snack: BHUTTA – Mumbai, which was grilled corn with spiced butter and corn sorbet. The grilled corn was coated in a sublime spiced butter that was worth smudging my lipstick all over my chin. The corn sorbet, however, fell a bit flat; I could just taste coldness, no flavour. However, my partner enjoyed it; a snack that just isn’t for everyone but that was completely forgotten about when the bread course was served, which was beautiful. PAU is a Hokkaido milk loaf that came with a light spiced lamb pate that was just gorgeous, bread was soft, fluffy and dipped in the pate was just simply flawless.

Starters arrived, and we tucked into the unforgettable Aloo Tuk – Achaari potatoes and tamarind, along with the Kekda Kerala, a soft-shell crab with caraway seed tempura and crab shaami (the winning course on Great British Menu). The Aloo Tuk left us speechless; no words can sum up how beautiful that dish is, while we tucked into the soft-shell crab dish, it became evident why it was the winning course. The attention to detail, the creative use of ingredients, and the seamless fusion of traditional Indian elements with contemporary techniques elevated this dish to a level of culinary brilliance.
 

Before we could catch our breath, the chefs wanted us to try the Orkney scallop, tomato rassam, mooli, and apple, which dazzled our palates. This dish was the real winner for me, by far the best scallop dish I have ever tasted. Scallops are my favourite starter, so I am a tough critic! Coated beautifully, full of zest, and lovely and light and refreshing, we couldn’t help but pick up the bowl and slurp up the rest of the sauce because that was one of the best damn dishes I have ever tasted.

The main courses showcased the Allepy Kerala, a day boat fish with seasonal greens, raw mango, and coconut. This dish was absolutely divine, perfectly balanced and an ode to the freshest ingredients. On the other hand, the Shalgam West Bengal, a roasted poussin with tandoori thigh, turnip, and Bengali chicken sauce, didn’t quite resonate with my personal taste, but it was still well-crafted. Admittedly, as someone who isn’t a big lover of chicken, this might have influenced my perception of the dish. While the presentation was stunning, and the poussin was cooked to perfection, I found that the dish seemed to be heavily laden with sauce, which subdued the flavours of the chicken. Perhaps the intention was to add depth to the dish, but for my palate, it leaned towards being a tad bland despite the generous amount of sauce.

On to dessert; AAM with Alphonso mango and lime, and SEB Moghul featuring Granny Smith samosa, sorrel, cinnamon, and wild berries provided a sweet end to the meal. The Granny Smith samosa stood out with its delightful interplay of sweet and savoury, the crisp, flaky pastry encased the tender apple filling, which was expertly spiced with the warmth of cinnamon. The addition of tangy sorrel and the burst of flavour from the wild berries added a burst of freshness that perfectly balanced the sweetness of the dessert. My partner said the AAM with Alphonso mango and lime dessert was delicious and perfectly refreshing, making it the perfect palate cleanser from the richness of some of the mains.

Just when I thought it was the end of our meal, we were then told that we were to go back to the lounge for after-dinner snacks. Reading this back, it almost comes across as if I was irritated with the number of snacks, but I was far from that; to be honest, I was shocked and incredibly impressed at how much customers are getting for their money! To be honest, by this point, I was satisfied, but I couldn’t say no to a warm cup of Assam and some delicious after dinner snacks such as mango ice lollies dipped in white chocolate (which were stunning). We finished with a selection of petits fours.

While there was one main I wasn’t so keen on, I felt the overall quality, impeccable service, and uniqueness of the dining experience was unrivalled. Opheem’s dedication to preserving India’s culinary treasures while infusing modern touches is truly incredible to experience. The lunch set menu offered exceptional value for money, making it one of the best dining experiences I have ever had. In conclusion, Opheem is not just a restaurant; it’s an extraordinary dining experience that transports diners on a journey through the evolution of Indian cuisine. With each dish, Opheem masterfully captures the essence of India’s diverse flavours, leaving guests in awe and longing for more. 100% a fan and looking forward to experience more of Opheem over the next couple of months.

Book your table at Opheem here