Hidden away around the corner from Dishoom, you’ll find Birmingham’s newest steak restaurant, Cow & Sow. With two sister restaurants in Bristol, they promise premium beef and encourage guests to “prepare for a new era of steak.” Since its opening, my inbox has been flooded with requests to review it, especially to compare it to a competitive steakhouse nearby—which just so happens to be one of my favourite restaurants opening in 2024. I went to Cow & Sow with an open mind and a promise to myself: don’t mention the “P word” (Pasture). But, spoiler alert, I found myself screaming the “P word” more often than Cow & Sow after this dining experience.
First impressions? The place is undeniably stunning. The interior design is sleek and inviting, with a view of the open kitchen and dry-aged steaks proudly on display. Coats hung on the handy pegs behind us, we kicked things off with drinks. I decided to behave (for once) and ordered a mocktail: The Tulip Club (£6.50)—a mix of cranberry, raspberry, pineapple, lime, and syrup. Sweet, simple, and refreshing—a nice start to the evening.
Our server was polite, attentive, and served us with a smile. While they were slightly nervous at times, the restaurant only opened in December, so I’m giving the benefit of the doubt—training kinks are to be expected. Overall, the service was good.
Now for the food. Let’s just say, the starters were anything but premium. I ordered the Potted Ox Cheek (£6.95) with truffle butter and fig bread crackers, and what turned up was something I was not expecting at all, and frankly, quite disappointing. The dish resembled a sad attempt at pâté, with the truffle butter rock solid – as if it had been frozen and barely thawed, leaving it unpleasantly cold. Beneath it, the ox cheek was dry, unseasoned, and resembled a tin of dog food. As for the crackers? They tasted stale, like they’d been left out and forgotten. It was a disastrous start to the meal.
My friend Josie ordered the Sticky Pork Belly, but after one bite, she couldn’t finish it. Naturally, I gave it a go, and I immediately regretted it. The pork tasted cheap, sour, and gamey. The smell and flavour were so unpleasant I had to spit it out discreetly into a tissue. While the ox cheek was taken off the bill after feedback, we delivered our thoughts on the pork, but we decided not to take off.
The main event – the steak – was the ultimate let down. We opted for the 35-day aged Porterhouse (priced at £10.50/100g). At 1,110g, it came to £115, served with two sauces and two sides. For three people, I thought the price was fair, but the execution was far from what I expected. We requested medium rare, and while parts hit the mark, others were gelatinous, almost reminiscent of eating raw salmon, with barely any flavour to redeem it.
The bone marrow butter and chimichurri we chose for seasoning were the saving grace because the steak itself was bland. And the fat, usually, my favourite part of a good steak, melting in your mouth with buttery richness. But here? It was tough, gristly, and inedible—like gnawing on a rock. Typically, I’m that person who turns into the dog from Tom & Jerry, clutching every last piece of steak for myself, but I found myself unwilling to fight for the last bite.
Surprisingly, some of the sides were the meal’s saving grace. The Koffmann’s chips with beef dripping were perfectly crispy, and the Miso & Chilli Jam Glazed Hispi Cabbage was gorgeously seasoned with a sweet kick that paired nicely with the steak. Sadly, the Three Cheese Mac was bland, despite looking amazing in its serving pot, and the Cheesy Broccoli and Leek Gratin was just okay (my friends enjoyed it more than I did).
On a brighter note, my friend Sarah ordered from the lunch menu and was much happier with her experience. The pricing is competitive, with one course at £14.00, two courses at £18.00, and three courses at £22.00. That said, the portions were on the small side – perfect for a casual lunch but not if you’re hoping to leave stuffed.
We split the £210 bill and left feeling disappointed. Would I go back? For all of us at the table, the answer was no. Cow & Sow has a big hill to climb, especially considering its proximity to and competition with – Pasture, which frankly knocks it out of the park. I hate to keep bringing it up, but when two restaurants with similar concepts and pricing are just a short walk apart, comparisons are inevitable. And unfortunately, Cow & Sow fell short.
That’s not to say Cow & Sow is beyond redemption. The service was friendly, the waiting times were reasonable on a busy Saturday, and a few dishes showed potential. However, when the star of the show—the steak—fails to deliver, it’s hard to overlook, especially when you’re paying premium prices.
If I were to return, I’d likely stick to the lunch menu or more affordable options. This restaurant does have potential, and with some refinement and a stronger focus on quality, Cow & Sow could live up to the hype they’ve promised. But for now, it’s a work in progress – and for me, it’s got a long way to go.
BAB ABOUT TOWN 